BAJA 7075-T6 AL FRONT LOWER CHASSIS BRACE

Part no. 5B025

Install is very simply.  Make sure to have all you tools ready for the job.  You will need a drill, an M5.0 drill bit, some cutters or a dremel tool with cutting disk, 2.5 & 3.0 mm Allen wrenches (optional M5.0x0.8 drill & tap).

Contests of kit include 1 fully machined 7075-T6 AL brace, 2-M5x16 flat socket screws, 2-M5x20 flat socket screws, 2-M5x45 flat socket screws, 2-M5 locknuts.

• Remove your stock plastic lower skid.  On the 5T & 5SC trucks you need to remove the front bumper and brace to access this.  Once the plastic skid is removed you will need to remove the small "hook" that holds it in the bulkhead.  Use your cutters or your dremel to shave this off.  Securing your truck on it side at this time will make the rest of the install much easier.  Make sure to drain you fuel tank to prevent spilled fuel in your work area.

• Now place your new aluminum brace over the top of the chassis and align the front four holes to the ones on your bulkhead.  Using the provided M5x20 screws secure the brace to your bulkhead through the two countersunk holes. You can temporarily use the M5x45 screws in the other two holes to help line up your plate as you tighten the first two screws.

• At this point you should decide whether to drill or drill/tap your holes on the stock chassis.  We recommend using the drill/tap as it makes for a cleaner install.  A standard M5.0 is recommended for the drill method while a M4.20 is needed for the drill/tap.  Although drilling the chassis on a drill press would be optimal, we did find that if done with care you can easily do this same work on the bench.

• Carefully drill out the two holes a shown using the proper drill bit.  Make sure to hold your drill perpendicular to the chassis as you make your holes to prevent any thread issues if using a tap.  Once hour holes are done (and threaded) secure the plate to the chassis using the provided M5x16 screws.  Use the M5 locknuts on the inside of the chassis if you used the drill only method or if you want added security for the drill/tap method.

• Now place your stock plastic skid over top of the brace.  Using the M5x45 screws secure them to the bulkhead.  The stock front bumper/brace can now be installed.  Please make sure to secure the bumper in the original position.  The plastic will bend and form to the shape of the newly installed aluminum brace. 

BAJA REAR SWAYBAR MOUNT INSTALL

Part no. 5B019

• Contests of kit include 2 machined AL swaybar mounts, 6 machined AL cone washers, 2-M3x25 flat socket screws, 4-M3x8 flat socket screws & 2-M3x4 socket set screws.

• First remove the weak stock plastic swaybar mounts.  Verify that the two M3 locknuts are still in place inside the rear bulkhead.

• Snap the two new aluminum swaybar mounts in place as in picture above.  They will be tight fitting on the stock plastic.

• If needed, use the four small M3x4 socket set screws on the inside of the slots as shown (Make sure to use loctite on these little set screws). These prevent vibration and noise when using the medium and small swaybar size wires.  You do not need to use these if running the thick swaybar wire. 

• Now chose the position you would like to mount the swaybar wire in.  You can use the upper or lower mounting position or you can use the angled position if you use the medium or small size wire.  The large wire will not bend for the angled install.

• Use one cone washer for every screw starting with the two M3x25 screws in the upper holes, then the four M3x8 screws in the lower holes. 

• That's it.  You're done!  Just remember, use loctite!

BAJA 5B 3 PC WINDSHIELD INSTALL

Part no. 5B015

This is a simple installation and best shown with the full installation pictures below.

TRAXXAS MINI E-REVO CENTER SKID PLATE

Installing your new Mini E-Revo center skid plate can be a bit tricky.

• Make sure to locate the machined standoff posts in the proper order and use the correct screws in each position.

• We’ve included an installation picture below showing where each piece of hardware should go.

• We suggest laying the truck on it’s back on a level surface.  Remove all eight M3 screws on the bottom starting on the front end of the truck (this will make the transmission float till install is complete).

• Once the stock button head screws have been removed carefully place the provided M3 standoff posts in their proper place. Be careful as these posts are very similar in size and if you do not position them correctly the skid plate will not sit flat.

• After you position the skid plate start putting the screws in place started from one side and working your way to the other end.

RUSTLER/STAMPEDE WINTER SKI KIT INSTALLATION

To begin, you must be aware that your electronics will need to be water proofed in some way. Either by the use of balloons or plasti-dip or any other method that you may prefer. It is very important that you are aware of the risk of having your electronics damaged when exposed to water. A bit of time spent on this will save you from any potential damage.

Now for the install; Carefully look at the picture showing which mounting holes to use for your vehicle.

1) Remove both front wheels. For Nitro trucks, remove the wheel hex but leave the hex pin in place. The pin will anchor the main bracket and allow you to tighten the wheel nut back on.

2) Place the main ski bracket on the axle and loosely tighten the 4mm wheel nut back in place.

3) Remove the steering link from the arm on the front carrier.

4) Install the side bracket using the provided 3x8 button screw, do not fully tighten yet. Install the steering link on the top of the bracket and tighten in place using the 3x20mm screws and M3 locknut provided.

5) Now tighten the 3x8mm button screw on the side, then the wheel locknut and you are ready to go! We recommend running paddle tires or something with good traction on the rear of your truck for the best performance!

 T-MAXX ROLLBAR INSTALLATION DISCONTINUED

Part no. FF008 FF008*

We have had a few requests to help with the installation of the rollbar.

Tools that you will need:

Phillips screw driver, 1 Toothpick, Fine point marker, Drill with 1/8” drill bit,  9/64” or 5/32” drill bit (one or two sizes up from 1/8”.

First remove the two 6-32 screws from the bottom of you new rollbar.  Then insert the two toothpick pieces into the holes.  Now place the rollbar into position and with your marker; mark the ends of the toothpicks where they touch the chassis.  These are the two holes that you will need to drill.  Depending on the length of drill bit that you use, you may need to remove the gas tank to be able to drill these holes.

We recommend drilling the holes with an 1/8" bit first, to make sure you have the position correct then enlarging the holes with a 9/64" or 5/32" bit.  Be careful not to make a hole too big or too close to the receiver battery. If you are a little bit off center on your holes, you can "bend" the rollbar very slightly by hand to line up your holes. Once you have the holes drilled, remove the toothpick pieces from the rollbar and position it on the chassis.  Then from the bottom of the truck, insert the screws and tighten the rollbar. 

We recommend the use of thread lock as with all of our products.  Make sure that the rollbar is securely mounted to the chassis by picking up the truck by the rollbar.                             
This install process should take less than 5 min.

T/E-MAXX SWAY BAR INSTALLATION (ORIGINAL ONLY)

Part no. FF009 DISCONTINUED

Our sway bars can be installed on the front and rear of the T-MAXX and

E-MAXX. To install the sway bar, the truck must be sitting on a flat surface so the suspension will be slightly compressed.

Please note that the sway bars are designed to mechanically connect the
left and the right suspension together. This will cause some loss in the travel of the shocks. If you have your suspension setup with a very high ride you will have problems installing these.

Slide the sway bar through both bumper mounts as Shown (picture 1).

The sway bar will rest on top of the left and right a-arms(2). 

You need to line up the hole in center of the rod end to the solid area on the A-arm. See the white dot in picture(3).
You may need to push the suspension down to make the holes line up. Using a pen or marker, mark the holes and as shown in picture(4).
With an 1/8" bit, drill both upper A-arms where you marked. You can also drill through the rod ends(5).
Install the 4/40 Allen bolts and nuts as in picture(6).
And you are done. Now take it out for a spin!

Note:
The sway bars will make a huge difference in the performance of your truck in tight turns, on dirt or street. Our new sway bars now have rod ends on them to prevent the strain on the A-arms and they work great. The new sets are shipped without the nylon bushings as they are no longer needed. Simply bolt the sway bar right on to the A-arm as described above and you are ready to go.

3mm THREADED INSERT KIT

Part no. FF013

"HOLMWRECKER" REAR TOE LINKS

These ultra beefy rear toe links are a direct replacement for the stock ones on your truck. They are made from hollow graphite shaft which provides superb strength yet enough flexibility to be able to withstand some seriously hard abuse. Strong aluminum inserts are glued into the shafts which allow the use of much stronger 8/32 threaded Kyosho rod ends and flanged balls.
These links were originally designed by "HOLMWRECKER AND OVALQUEEN" from the MAXXPITSTOP online help forum.

To install the links;
Mount the flanged side towards the surface to be mounted on. The screws provided replace the stock screws on both ends of the links. These are a fixed length link, set at zero degrees of toe. If toe in is desired, simply adjust the upper and lower pivot balls by the same amount on each one, adjusting them clockwise will give more toe-in, counterclockwise will give less. Make sure to take up the slack on the pivot balls by adjusting the pivot ball pillows as needed.
Be aware that there is a right and left link so if it doesn't look right, you will need to try it on the other side.
Replacement balls or ends are available at most hobby stores.
Kyosho ends #1296
Kyosho balls #92841

Here are some pictures of these links mounted on one of our project trucks. Just compare the wimpy stock rods to the newly installed HOLMWRECKER toe link!